Notes from a Gardening Class

Nomenclature and Container Gardening

Home Vegetable Gardening

Weeds, Pests and Diseases

Landscaping

Water Wise Gardening

Selected Plant Materials

Plant Requirements

Physiology and Propagation

Links for "Man Skills" Gardening Class

I thought it would be easier to give you this information online, since it is mostly links...now you don't have to type out each one. I'll add more as necessary to answer questions that come up!

Blossom End Rot in Tomatoes

USU Extension

Blue Stakes

Vegetables in Containers

Vegetable Varieties for Utah

Canned Garden Seeds @ Mountain Valley Seeds

Care of Northern Utah Cool Season Grasses

Turfgrass Watering

Squash Bugs (control is at the bottom)

More Squash Bugs (control also at the bottom)

Links to Plant Requirements and Composting

I thought it might make it a little easier if I put a link to the updated notes and also the links for pages with good information for class on April 12th.

Compost Troubleshooting

Compost Links

Nutrient Deficiency Links

Updated Plant Requirements Notes

I hope that helps.

Home Vegetable Gardening Notes

Vegetable Gardening:

As with so many other topics, there are so many differences between the crops and their problems, planting time and depth, harvesting, etc, that we are mostly going to talk in general terms. I will, talk about some of the more common vegetables, though.

USU Extension Pub. HG313-Home Vegetable Garden: Variety Recommendations for Utah: –Gives information about what to look for in the varieties you select
–Table of Recommended Varieties
–List of Sources for seeds
–Vegetable Planting Chart: when, how and how much for a family of 4-6 people

Where? Choose the sunniest location in your yard, with the best soil.

When? Spring and fall are the best time to grow cool-season crops. Summer is the best time for warm-season crops.

How much? The amount of each depends on what you want to do with the vegetables. If you love vegetables and like to eat them fresh as well as preserved, you’ll want to grow more. Use a chart to learn what is recommended.

What to do?

Before–planning, soil preparation, variety selection, seed or transplants

Plant rows running east to west, to avoid shading other rows as the sun moves across the sky. Taller crops, including those that will be trellised or staked, should be in the north side of the garden & shorter crops to the south, also to avoid shading. Medium-sized crops should be planted in the middle of the garden.
Short: radishes, carrots, beets, lettuce, onions
Medium: cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, tomatoes, pumpkins
Tall: peas, beans, corn

Soil preparation–add generous amounts of organic humus to the soil and work it in thoroughly.

Broccoli, cauliflower, eggplants, cabbage, tomatoes & peppers can be bought as transplants. This can help with germination as well as giving a head start in a cold climate. Most things in a vegetable garden can be grown from seed.
Remember, that collecting seed at the end of the season only works well with open-pollinated seed. If you reuse seed from hybrids, you will rarely get the same result the next season.

During–weeding, watering, mulching, protection from cold, watering, fertilizing, training/staking

After–harvesting, composting, cover crops
Cover crops can be used to maintain fertility and keep weeds out in an established garden. A crop is planted in the fall after the main crop has been harvested. It is grown through the fall and winter. In the spring, it is turned under to provide organic matter to the soil as it decays. A process called green manuring is used in a similar way, but is intended for soil that has started out poor in fertility. A crop can be grown on it at anytime, raised to about half maturity and then turned under. This process is repeated until the soil is acceptable. Alfalfa, clover, cowpeas, soybeans, and some vetch cultivars are the best cover and green manure crops. These members of the pea family can add nitrogen back into the soil as they decay. Winter crops include wheat, rye, ryegrass, and buckwheat (buckwheat is especially good, since it can tolerate poor soils and aids those soils greatly).

Varieties

Companion Plants–Some vegetables can help or harm each other if they are grown close to each other. Carrots–leaf lettuce, radish, onions and tomatoes. Keep dill at the opposite end of the garden. Tomatoes–carrots, parsley and onions, but keep cabbage and cauliflower away from them. Corn–pumpkins, peas, beans and potatoes are good around them, but tomatoes should be far away from them.

Types of Gardens–Traditional raised beds, containers, tire, trellis, greenhouse

Raised beds–21 inches to 4 feet wide–you need to be able to reach across them. The soil should be 8 to 12 inches above ground level. You can simply mound the earth up, or hold it up in large frames. The soil can get warmer, faster than traditional gardens and can stay warmer for longer. Raised beds also provide better drainage.

Containers–Anything that you can put soil in, you can plant in. Some types of containers may produce healthier plants than others.

Container varieties

Depending on the size of your containers, you can grow:

Chives, green onions, summer radishes, various lettuces, hot peppers, carrots, spinach, broccoli, bell peppers and cherry tomatoes, eggplant, cucumber, squash, beans and peas.

Upside-down tomato plants.

If you have 30 to 55 gallon containers, you can grow anything you want in containers.

Tires–Another type of container is a tire. Tires can be turned inside-out and used as large pots. The various sizes offer large variety in what can be planted.

Trellises–Some plants grow best on trellises and some can be made to grow that way if you have a small space and need to go up rather than across. Containers, including tires can be used to grow plants on trellises.

Greenhouses–If you need the added warmth, you can at least start some plants in a greenhouse.

Incorporated–Sometimes, people will grow their fruits, vegetables and especially herb along with the flowers and other landscape plants that they grow.

Herbs–generally herbs need full sun and well-drained soil. Indoors, herbs need 5 hours of sunlight or 12-14 hours of artificial light everyday.
Harvest just before plants flower. Clip in the morning. Cut about 1/3 each time, to encourage new growth. Younger leaves have more flavor and are less bitter than older leaves.
Seeds need to picked when the seed heads change color–usually dark. Cut on a hot, dry day and then dry out for two weeks. Store in an air-tight container.
Can be dried in the air, oven or microwave. Herbs can also be frozen and thawed to use as fresh.
Store herbs in air-tight containers, preferably glass, for up to a year for best potency.
Knot gardens–herbs woven around each other to be a decorative, fragrant garden

Companion Herbs–Many herbs do better if they are grown together. They can also provide various benefits to fruits and vegetables grown in your garden.

Most plants can do just fine from seed, but if you want a little bonus time, you can buy transplants for some plants. Seeds are cheaper than transplants.

Crop rotation–This is the process of changing which crops are planted where in the garden each year. It isn’t essential, but it is a good way to avoid problems in the soil associated with specific crops. As long as the shading issues are taken into consideration, the rotation can be easily accomplished.

Weed and insect control–make sure to read labels and only use chemicals labeled for use in edible crops. Herbs can also be used to keep pests away from your garden.

Specific Plants:

Asparagus–sandy soil that is high in fertility is best, but asparagus can do well in any soil; grow 8-12 inches apart; harvest when spears are 6-8 inches tall

Beans–any well drained soil; plant after frost; plant 1 inch deep and 2-3 inches apart

Carrots–cool season crop, grown in the summer in cold regions; deep loose soils with good drainage; carrot seedlings need to be thinned to give enough room for growth; harvest when carrots are between 1 & 2 inches in diameter

Corn–warm-season crop that needs to be planted after the danger of frost is gone; wide range of well-drained soils is acceptable; 1-2 inches deep & 8-10 inches apart; popcorn or field corn shouldn’t be grown within 100 feet of sweet corn to prevent cross-pollination and poor kernel development; harvest when silk turns dark brown and kernels are plump and have a milky sap inside; cook immediately after harvest

Eggplant–grown from transplants; harvest before skin has lost it’s sheen and appropriate size for cultivar is reached; a long period of warmth is needed, so an appropriate cultivar for your region; store at 50-55 degrees and preferably not in the refrigerator

Onions–best in humus-rich, sandy soil; tolerant of a large range of temperatures; photoperiod is very important and therefore, so is choosing a cultivar that works well in the region; harvest at most times during development, depending on desired size

Peas–cool temperatures & lots of moisture are needed; seed 1 inch apart; can sew seeds in double rows, 8 inches apart & trained on the same trellis; harvest when the peas start to fill out the pod and are not yet tough; use immediately if possible

Peppers–growing sweet and hot peppers together usually allows for cross-pollination, the vegetables will not be affected, but the seeds will have the qualities of both parents and will be hot, remove before eating sweet peppers; same cultural requirements as eggplant

Tomatoes–range of soils with good drainage; don’t plant in the same place year after year; need warm temperatures for fruit to set; usually grown from transplants; determinate plants will have a more bush shape, while indeterminate plants will vine; fertilize prior to planting and with a nitrogen side-dressing a month after planting; harvest when fully red, unless you like green tomatoes

Weeds, Pests & Diseases Notes

Why?

Weeds, Pests & Diseases can affect the beauty, health and vigor of plants. They can also decrease yield in fruit and vegetable crops. They can prevent growth, development or flowering of plants as well.

Good management analogy: If you have a dog that you feed outside, and you expect the dog to be the only creature to eat that food you are crazy. Cats, deer, raccoons and any number of other animals will most likely eat that food. You can’t expect to only feed the dog. The same can be said for the plant world. Weeds need many of the same things that desirable plants require. If you give the desirable plants what the weeds need, you will aid weed growth alongside the plants you want to have there. On the other hand, if you learn what the desirable plants need to make them the healthiest, many times you can crowd out or otherwise kill the weeds and weed seeds.

A healthy plant is a lot more susceptible to disease and pest damage than one that is under stress. Healthy plants are more able to outcompete weeds in the garden as well.
Also, choosing appropriate plant varieties can limit the amount of pest and other damage.

I am not going to talk a lot about specifics. There are too many to cover. So, if you have a specific problem, ask.

WEEDS:

Good Chemical Control of Field Bindweed : (80-95%) Selective Lawn Herbicides
2,4-D+MCPP+dicamba (Trimec, Weed-Out, Weed-B-Gone, etc)
2,4-D+dicamba+MCPP+MSMA (Quadmec)

Annual weeds: Generally, pull annual weeds. Or spray them

Perennial weeds: You have to make sure to kill the whole plant, not just the above ground part. Many have rhizominous roots that will create new plants from each piece left in the ground.

Approaches:

Biological–Use of beneficial insects to reduce amounts of weeds.
Cultural–Maintaining healthy plants can prevent weeds from invading. Also, use of specific varieties can aid in competing with weeds.
Herbicide–Read all labels and follow precisely–to do otherwise is breaking federal laws!!
Mechanical/Physical–Pulling and tilling are methods to kill weeds that don’t have roots that can reproduce from pieces.
Prevention–First line of defense. If you can keep it out in the first place, you don’t have to deal with the detrimental effects later.

Identification: Call extension specialists or look online or in a book. When you know what you are dealing with and what its life-cycle is, you can know better how to manage it.


Biological wildfire:

Wild fires and weeds have many things in common: Impacts, Spread & Management

Management: Prevention, Detection, Suppression (Control) & Revegetation


Noxious Weeds:

The Utah Commissioner of Agriculture decides which weeds are noxious. To be considered noxious a weed must be non-native, invasive and poses a serious threat to native plants, wildlife habitat, crops or livestock.

Land owners are responsible for the control of the official noxious weeds growing on their land.

There are also county noxious weed. Counties are asked to keep these to a minimum to reduce confusion.

Weeds in a lawn: (from USU extension publication HB 508 April 1997)

First, maintain a healthy lawn and you will have less problems. If the lawn is thick and deep, it can out compete most weed invasions.

Buy weed-free seed! The label on the seed is required to list the amount of weed seed included. If you buy cheaper seed, you may be getting more weed seeds than if you paid more for the seed in the first place. Then, you can spend more of your time and money on other parts of your landscape, rather than on the weeds that you planted with the grass seed.

Fertilize properly so that the grass can be thick and healthy. If it is very healthy, it can out compete the weeds.

Mow at about 2 ½ inches and keep the blades sharp. Mowing too low can cause damage and allows for weeds to come in.

Irrigate properly for your soil. The more clay that is in your soil, the less frequently you will need to water. Also, allow the top ½ inch of soil to dry out between waterings so that weed seeds are killed.

General Weed Control Rules:

Don’t let weeds go to seed
Kill weeds when they are young
Good management will keep out most weeds
One year’s seeding equals seven year’s weeding
Pesticides are safe if used properly and according to the labels–just because a little herbicide is good doesn’t mean a lot is better.

INSECTS:

IPM–Integrated Pest Management (from USU extension publication AG/IPM/01 April 1996)

Holistic, ecologically based, can be used anywhere
IPM utilizes multiple techniques (cultural, biological, chemical, mechanical)
Emphasizes reaching tolerable levels of insects not complete eradication
Incorporates economic sustainability
Takes into account environmental and social concerns

Strategies:

1. Do nothing–You decide that the levels of insects is below the point that you do anything, so you don’t.
2. Reduce numbers–use cultural, chemical or other means to reduce the number of insects.
3. Reduce susceptibility of crop/ecosystem–rely on changes made to the plant to improve resistence to the insect
4. Combine strategies

Key Steps:

Know your plant and pest
Decide what is unacceptable pest damage (economic injury level)
Consider all pest management options
Time pest controls with pest vulnerability

Non-native weeds and insects can be a problem because they don’t have the same ecosystem to keep them in check that they had where they are from. Use of biological control can be effective when organisms from those countries of origin are used.

DISEASES:

Choose plant varieties that are resistant to disease. Create an environment that is not conducive to the growth of disease. When you do get a diseased plant, find out what the disease is and how to get rid of it. In general, remove diseased plant parts and plants and sanitize any tools that have come in contact with the disease.

Landscaping Notes

Planning:

1. Create a base map–Drawn to scale, includes outline of house, property lines, existing vegetation and any hardscape features (patios, decks, water features, etc)

2. Site analysis–Data collecting: zone, views, microclimates, soil type, wildlife (whether positive or negative), slope, home type, easements and access to meters, utility lines

3. Needs analysis–family’s interests and needs, are there children?, design style preferred, care and maintenance desired, lifestyle, entertaining?, annuals, perennials, fruits and vegetables, storage/utility areas.

4. Concept Drawings/Bubble diagrams–Express function, activities, spaces, use areas, circulation and relationships.

3 basic use areas: public, private & service

a. Public–areas that are seen and used
b. Private–back and side yards, outdoor living spaces
c. Service–storage & fruit and vegetable garden; usually out of the way and screened from the rest of the yard

Arrows are used to show direction of circulation through the yard. Driveway is largest arrow, then entryway, then sidewalks and other foot traffic areas.
Functional Edges: fences, visual screens, buffers
Focal points or conflict areas that need to be dealt with

5. Plant selection/Completion of plan–First function of plants is chosen, then specific plants are selected to fill those needs. Things to be considered are: the bloom time, height, sun requirements and color of the perennials.

Principles of Design:

Simplicity–Simple lines are much more effective than complex ones.

Repetition–Simplicity can be achieved primarily through repeating elements or plants through out a design.

Variety–So that the repetition doesn’t become monotonous, variety of planting is also needed.

Balance–Symmetrical balance is achieved through mirror-image plantings. Asymmetrical balance is created when large elements are opposed by many smaller elements, to achieve equal visual weight.
Emphasis–Abrupt changes in form, color or texture can create a focal point for a planting.

Interconnection–A common element is used to link different elements of the design together.

Sequence–This is the flow that is created with color, form &/or texture to draw the viewer’s eye from one place to another.

Garden Styles:
–Cottage: Planted for sustenance as well as beauty; fruits, vegetables and a few flowers; old-fashioned flowers; flowers seem to have sprung up naturally; fragrance; intermingling of flowers; spontaneous appearance; sweet peas, hollyhocks, roses, climbing vines; picket fences; simple, straight lines; benches; arbors

–Mediterranean: Water-wise; fragrant; terra cotta pots; tile mosaics; water features; shells & coral; courtyards; stone & stucco; lots of paths; lots of gravel; warm wall colors; conjures thoughts of the sea; shady place for outdoor eating; herbs; cool plant colors; olive, citrus, grape vines, sunflowers

–Formal: Symmetry; clean lines; clipped hedges; lots of repetition; mirror-images

–“New” Formal: Formality is purposefully interrupted; playful; interactive; contemporary materials

–Japanese: Serenity; celebrates the natural world; not a showcase for flowers; opposites are put into balance; changing of the seasons emphasized; bamboo, pines, flower cherry, Japanese maple

–Eccentric: Anything goes; strange ornamentation; fairy & gnome gardens; appeal to senses; conversation starters; living furniture; lots of color and imagination

–Xeric: Conserve water; uses hydrazoning for ease of watering; native and non native plants are utilized.


Color –warm colors advance, they are inviting and lively (yellow-orange-red)
–cool colors recede, they are restful (green-blue-violet)
–use the color wheel to choose colors that compliment or enhance each other
–colors that are side-by-side on the color wheel are analogous, they usually blend well together
–colors that are across from each other on the color wheel are complimentary, they tend to look good as accents in a design (violet & yellow, red & green, orange & blue are complimentary to each other)
Form –shape
–size
–growth habits: upright, compact, trailing, etc

Texture –the shapes and sizes of parts of the plant determine the texture
–large bold leaves, versus tiny, wispy leaves create very different effects

Drawing & Understanding a Landscape Plan:

Tools: architect’s scale, t-square, good pens, vellum, stationary triangles, pencil or lead holder, circle templates, drafting table, French curves, eraser shield

Guide patterns–Certain shapes and angles are used to give unity to a plan. When all beds, hardscapes and features are created using the same shapes, the plan is given more uniformity.

Planting plan & Planting schedule–The planting plan shows all the things that have been decided about a landscape and where each should go. It is drawn to scale and lists each plant to be used. A planting schedule is a list of each plant, with information about it. It tells the sizes and amount of each plant to be purchased.

Landscape Symbols–Symbols are used to show specific types and sizes of plants and hardscape features. There are different symbols for evergreens, deciduous plants, perennials and turf.

Section-elevation Drawings–used to highlight specific areas that need to show more detail

Plant Selection:

Use materials and plants which enhance the home. Use similar materials as home and existing structures. Consider the style of home as well as the surrounding homes and landscapes.


Perennials –hardiness zone
–size: rate of growth, amount and type of maintenance (prune to maintain size)
–soil: tolerance to alkalinity, acidity, salt, clay
–light exposure: sun versus shade (in Utah, remember that we are at a higher elevation, so we have hot, bright sunlight and many of our “shady” areas aren’t very shady–north side of home is usually okay
–pollution & pest resistance
–to create continuous bloom, either use a perennial bloom chart, or use books and create your own list of plants and when they bloom. Make sure to use plants that bloom in the colors you want in spring, summer and fall. If you have the information, try to find plants that bloom in early, mid and late times of each season.

Trees –Mature size
–Rate of growth: if fast, the wood is generally soft and can be a liability (they also grow to be fairly large as well)
–Roots: be careful around sidewalks and patios (roots can push them up), can cause problems in a septic field, WON’T damage foundations, compacted soil can make sidewalk heaving worse.
–Fruits: blossoms (color & timing), persistent or messy?, if persistent, birds usually eat them off before they can fall, some flower but don’t pollinate self

Shrubs –ultimate size
–purpose: flowers, hedges, foundation planting, consider foot traffic, hide meters, ornamental quality
–suckering can be an issue
–type: evergreen, broadleaf evergreen, deciduous

Special Needs:

Wind protection–If you have an extremely large area, large masses of trees can be used to protect an area. If you use a fence, it needs to have slats all along it so that there isn’t an updraft on the other side.

Right next to a house, you can use evergreen shrubs to protect from direct wind.

Privacy & Child safety–A fence may be needed when immediate shielding is required.

Slopes–ground covers can help prevent erosion, using large groupings of one kind of plant makes a slope look the most natural, use low maintenance plants since they will be difficult to get access to; terracing and stairs can also be used to deal with a steep slope.

Bring in wildlife–Need to provide a proper habitat for the animals you want in your garden.

Habitat–Understand the needs of the specific creatures you want to come into your yard. Protection and nesting place are needed.

Food–Berries, nuts, leaves, twigs, roots, buds, stems, grasses, mosses, lichen can all be foods for creatures. Persistent fruit is needed for longer use by birds. Have a bird feeder for when the food is gone in the winter. You need nectar if you are to attract bees, butterflies or moths.

Water–Water is necessary for drinking, life cycle and nesting. Ponds attract amphibians. Moving water attracts birds.

Cover–thick shrubs, tall grass, plant litter. Needs to be near food and water.

Water Wise Gardening Notes

Most of this information came from www.slowtheflow.org

Make sure to contact Blue Stakes before you do any digging to avoid hitting utility lines. It's a free service.
www.bluestakes.org

Definitions:

Xeric: of pertaining to, or adapted to a dry environment (www.dictionary.com)

Xeric landscapes can be very beautiful. Rocks and mulches can be used, but are not the only things there. Cactus and succulents are also water wise, but are not the only options.

Water Wise: plants and landscapes that use less water and are adapted for dry conditions

Why Xeriscaping?

We live in the second driest state in the US. We need to conserve water so that there is enough for essential needs.
Water is a limited resource.
Resources cannot sustain the expected growth.

Water conservation:

More water is used outside of the home than inside. A large amount of that is wasted in runoff. If a water wise landscape is installed, much of that water can be conserved.

www.conservewater.utah.gov

Irrigation Changes:

Make sure all sprinkler head are functioning and spraying only the desired area. Make any needed changes.

Make sure sprinklers are not overlapping or covering less than you want them to.

“Cycle & Soak”–if you water for 3-5 minutes at a time in each zone, and then cycle through the areas a few more times, you will get a better soaking of the soil and avoid runoff. It would be better to do 3 cycles of 5 minutes each, rather than 15 minutes in one zone.

Make seasonal adjustments to your system...You don’t need to water for the same amount of time in May, August & October. The weather is different, and your watering schedule should be too.

Get a free water check: 1-877-728-3420–Slow the Flow Hotline They will come to your home, inspect your system and recommend changes to make it more efficient. They check application rate, system uniformity & soil type.

Irrigation methods: Remember to adjust after a rain storm

Hand
Drip

Seven Principles of Xeriscaping:

1. Planning and Design
2. Practical Turf Areas
3. Plant selection & Hydrazoning
4. Soil analysis
5. Mulching
6. Efficient Irrigation
7. Maintenance

Hydrazoning:

Very low water use–no additional water once established, unless in extreme drought
Low water use–1/2" of water added once or twice per month
Moderate water use–3/4" of water added once per week (still about half that of traditional landscapes)
High water use–1/2" of water added 3 times per week (usually Kentucky bluegrass used wisely)


List of plants:

www.utahbotanicalcenter.org The bottom of the homepage has links to two plant lists
www.waterwiseplants.utah.gov Link for a plant list is under "About this Website"

There are also 3 or so sites on the Slow the Flow website.

Turf in functional areas and alternatives to turf:

Turf grass should only be used in areas of the landscape where it is going to be used. If an area is difficult to mow or water, grass shouldn't be planted there. Grass can be used for play areas as well as to have an area for snow removal.

Park strips:

Measure area
Monitor for soil, drainage, exposure
Identify goals–maintenance, water usage
Plan & Design–draw a simple sketch
Select Plants (remember to check city regulations)
Plant, water and maintain

Plant Material

Here are the notes from class on January 30th. Sorry about the format, I'm not sure how to fix that from transferring it from WordPerfect...

Perennials (Including Trees):

Abies concolor–White Fir Large Evergreen Tree
Ajuga reptans ‘Catlin’s Giant’–Carpet Bugle Shade
Akebia quinata–Five-leaf Akebia Climbing vine
Alnus glutinosa–Black alder Large Deciduous Tree
Arabis blepharophylla ‘Spring Charm’–Rock Cress Full sun/rock garden
Armeria maritima ‘Splendens’–Thrift Full sun/rock garden
Aurinia saxatilis ‘Sunny Border Apricot’ Full sun/ rock garden
Ballota ‘Archer’s Variety’ Full sun
Bellium minutum–Miniature daisy Full sun/rock garden
Buxus sempervirens–Boxwood Hedge shrub
Campanula poscharskyana ‘Blue Waterfall’ Full sun
Carex grayii–Morning Star Sedge Grass
Carpinus Betulus ‘Columnaris’–Columnar Hornbeam Narrow Tree
Caryopteris clandonensis–Blue Mist Shrub Full sun
Catananche caerulea–Cupid’s Dart Full sun
Centaurea montana–Perennial Bachelor’s Button Full sun
Ceratostigma plumbago–Plumbago Shade
Chelone obliqua–Turtlehead Water side
Corydalis lutea–Golden Corydalis Partial shade
Corydalis elata–Blue Corydalis Shade
Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’–Contorted Filbert Ornamental Shrub
Crocosmia x ‘Solfatare’–Montbretia Full sun
Crocus Bulb
Cyclamen hederifolium–Hardy Cyclamen Shade
Cymbalaria muralis–Kenilworth Ivy Vine
Diascia ‘Red Start’–Twinspur Full sun
Dicentra spectibilis ‘Gold Heart’–Bleeding Heart Shade
Dictamnus albus var. purpureus ‘Sapphire Blue’ Full sun
Draba sibirica–Whitlow Grass Full sun/Rock garden
Dracocephalum ruyschiana–Northern Dragonhead Full sun/Rock garden
Dryopteris filix-mas ‘Chispatissima’ Fern/Shade
Eichhornia crassipes–Water Hyacinth Water plant
Equisetum scirpoides–Dwarf scouring rush Water side plant
Erica cineria–Spring Heather Broadleaf Evergreen Shrub
Erodium chrysanthum–Yellow Stork’s bill Full sun
Eryngium–Sea Holly Full sun
Eschscholzia californica–California poppy Full sun
Euonymus alatus 'Compacta'–Dwarf Burning Bush Large Deciduous Shrub
Filipendula vulgaris ‘Plena’–Meadowsweet Sun to partial shade
Galanthus nivalis–snowdrop Bulb
Galium odoratum–Sweet Woodruff Shade
Gentiana dahurica–Gentian Shade
Geranium --Cranesbill Full sun (most)
Ginkgo biloba–Maiden Hair Tree Large Deciduous Tree
Gypsophila paniculata–Common Baby’s Breath Full sun
Hedera helix–English Ivy Vine
Helleborus niger–Christmas Rose Shade
Hemerocallis –Daylily Full sun
Hibiscus macrophylla Full sun
Hosta–Plantain Lily Shade
Houttuynia cordata ‘Chameleon’--Chameleon Plant Shade/Water side
Hyacinthus Bulb
Hydrangea Shade
Iberis sempervirens–Candy Tuft Full sun/Rock garden
Iris Full sun
Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote’ Full sun
Leucanthemum ‘Becky’–Shasta daisy Full sun
Lonicera–Honeysuckle (x heckrottii-Goldflame) Vine
Lotus cornicualtus ‘Plenus’–Bird’s-Foot Trefoil Water
Lunaria annua–Money Plant/Honesty Full sun
Lupinus–Lupine Full sun
Lysimachia clethroides–Loosestrife Shade/water side
Malus–Apple Tree/Crabapples ‘Spring Snow’ Tree
Mentha requienii–Corsican Mint Stepable
Mimulus ‘Puck’–Monkey Flower Partial-Full Shade/Waterside
Myosotis sylvatica–Woodland Forget-Me-Not Shade
Omphalodes cappadocia ‘Cherry Ingram’–Forget me not Shade
Perovskia atriplicifolia ‘Little Spire’–Mini Russian SageFull sun
Platycodon grandiflorus –Balloon Flower Full sun
Pyrus calleryana ‘Aristocrat’–Ornamental Pear Medium Deciduous Tree
Raoulia australis–scab plant Stepable
Rudbeckia hirta ‘Toto Gold’–Black-Eyed-Susan Full sun
Sedum angelina Full sun
Silene mexicana ‘Hot Stuff’–Catchfly Full, hot sun
Sisyrinchium Full sun/Rock garden
Sophora japonica–Japanese Pagoda Tree Medium Deciduous Tree
Tanacetum niveum ‘Jackpot’–Silver tansy Full sun
Thymus x citriodorus ‘Doone Valley’ Full sun/Rock garden
Thymus pseudolanuginosus–Wooly Thyme Full sun/Rock garden
Trachelospermum jasminoides–Star Jasmine Climbing vine/Tender Perennial
Tricyrtis hirta–Toad Lily Shade
Trifolium repens ‘Pentaphyllum’–Black-Leaved Clover Stepable
Tulipa Bulb
Typha minima–Miniature Cattail Water side
Wisteria sinensis ‘Prolific’–Chinese Wisteria Vine

Annuals:

Antirrhinum majus–Snapdragon
Begonia x tuberhybrida–Tuberous Begonia
Brassica oleracea–Ornamental cabbage and kale
Calibrachoa hybrid–Calibrachoa (Million Bells)
Catharanthus roseus–Vinca
Celosia-Cock’s comb
Coleus x hybrida–Coleus
Convolvulus tricolor–Dwarf Morning Glory
Dianthus chinensis–Pinks
Gazania rigens–Gazania
Heliotropium arborescens–Heliotrope
Impatiens–Impatiens
Ipomoea batatas–Sweet Potato Vine
Limonium sinuatum–Status
Lobelia erinus–Lobelia
Lobularia maritima–Sweet alyssum
Nicotiana–Flowering tobacco
Pelargonium x hortorum–Geranium
Pennisetum setaceum–Annual fountain grass
Petunia x hybrida–Petunia
Portulaca grandiflora–Moss rose
Salvia farinacea–Salvia
Scaevola–Fan Flower
Senecio cineraria–Dusty Miller
Tagetes–Marigold
Thymophylla tenuiloba–Dahlberg daisy
Tropaeolum majus–Nasturtium
Verbena x hybrida–Garden verbena
Viola x wittrockiana–Pansy

Notes for Class

For any of you who check this blog, I am going to TRY to have my notes for class up on Mondays, so that if you want them, you can print them before class. I will try to do this for the rest of the class and I'll also announce this in class. For next week (January 30th), I'll print them and bring them to class for you all. I am only printing this set because it is needed to keep up. I am going to go over a lot of plants and I want you to be able to make notes about the ones you want to add to your yard or wish list!

Plant Requirements Notes (Updated)

---Here are the notes from class on 23 January 2007---Updated for 12 April 2007

Climate– Temperature, precipitation, humidity, light & wind.

Seasons–What are plants doing during each season?
Spring: Most new growth, break dormancy, many flower, use stored nutrients
Summer: Maturation for most temperate plants, energy storage (mostly in root system), survival (tissue toughens, plant growth slows
Fall: Transitional time, senescence (death, plants unload energy), dormancy, seed dispersal, preparation for winter
Winter: A time of waiting, dormancy (tissue is alive but not actively growing, some plants may freeze solid (suspended animation–cells are not frozen, but the water between them is)
Cells send water out and minerals in. Concentration of minerals gets very high. Just like salt on our sidewalks freezes at a lower temperature, the cells can protect themselves in this way. They can also freeze in this state because the cell has room to expand since a lot of the water has been sent out.
NOTE: evergreens may need some additional water, but can’t always get it if the ground is frozen
—Winter damage: Frost damage, Southwest winter injury (bark damage—warms cells--they rehydrate–freeze & burst), heaving of soil (root damage), sunburn (broadleaf evergreens due to lack of water when the sun hits the leaves), rodent damage

Temperature–ranges vary from plant to plant.

Cold–Plants go into dormancy to deal with cold temperatures. They have certain thresholds of tolerance, and can withstand extremely cold temperatures since most of their functions are shut down.
--Many plants, known as frost tender plants, have a tolerance of only as low as 28 degrees F. This is the temperature where the liquid in the plants freezes and kills the plant.
--Many plant parts can be cold hardy, but the buds and blossoms can be killed if there is a frost after those parts have developed.
–Chilling requirement: Some plants, particularly one that bear fruit, have a chilling requirement. They need to have a certain number of days below a specific temperature for fruit to appear.

Hardiness zones: USDA: We are in Zone 4 b -25 to -20 degrees F
Sunset: Zone 2–growing season is early May through September, winter lows range from -3 to -34 degrees F.

Heat–Heat zone map; in higher elevations, you can find plants listed with different requirements based on the tolerance to heat. If a plant can take a certain amount of sun in one location, it may need to have more shade to be able to tolerate the sun and heat here in Utah.

Water/Precipitation–In Utah, we get an average of 13 inches of precipitation, per year. The range is 5 (semi-arid ) to 30 (high mountains)inches across the state.
Water is used to carry nutrients through the plant. It also is needed to maintain plant health due to respiration, or lose of water. Water is also necessary for the chemical reactions that occur inside all plants.

Humidity–“The amount of water air contains relative to the amount it is capable of holding at that specific temperature.” Air can hold higher amounts of water at higher temperatures. Higher humidity can help plants grow better, since they won’t lose as much water through respiration. But, lower humidity doesn’t hinder plant growth as long as there is enough water available to the roots to make up for the loss.

Light–Plants have different requirements for light. Six hours is of sun per day (morning/evening/combination) is considered “full sun”, in Utah.
–Full sun, partial shade (partial sun), Full shade
Full sun–south & west sides of house, nothing in the way to block the sun
Partial shade–direct sunlight for 1/3 to ½ of the day
Full shade–areas where the sun rarely shines directly & when the light is direct, it is in the hours when the sun is the furthest away from the earth and the rays are the weakest. (Early morning)

Day length–regulates flower initiation, vegetative growth, dormancy; acts as a cue in Spring and Winter; many plants must have a specific day length before they can flower (poinsettia, Easter Lily)

Wind–Wind can be a factor if it is too strong. It can cause damage to plants if the wrong plants are selected or improperly placed.

Soils–Cation Exchange Capacity; good structure (rather than compacted and solid) for water movement as well as nutrient availability. Soil with good texture is called friable.
A soil needs to be able to keep nutrients in it, but also needs to allow plants to take them out of it. Too much clay can make a soil have poor drainage. To change this, you can work in organic matter to improve the texture & change the cation exchange capacity as well. Texture is determined by the amount of sand, silt, and clay. Organic matter can also affect the texture of the soil.



pH–Acidity or alkalinity of the soil. Most plants need near a pH of 7 (neutral) to grow and develop properly; nutrient uptake is greatly affected by pH. In Utah, you can’t change the pH very much, due to the high amounts of calcium in the soil. Calcium acts as a buffer.

Oxygen–The plant’s roots need oxygen to respire. If the soil is over-watered, or if there is inadequate drainage, the roots cannot receive the oxygen they require and will eventually rot.

Nutrients–Carbon, Hydrogen, Oxygen |Nitrogen, Potassium, Phosphorous | Calcium, Magnesium, Sulfur | Boron, Chlorine, Copper, Iron, Manganese, Molybdenum, Zinc
C, H & O are available in the soil and air and don’t need to be added.
N, P & K are called primary nutrients–they are usually lacking before the others because they are needed the most, after C, H & O. They need to be added.
C, Mg & S are called secondary nutrients–They are usually available in the soil, but need to be added sometimes.
The rest are known as micronutrients. Plants only need them in very small amounts. Some of these, like Iron, can be tied up in the soil and need chelating agents to make them available. (pH causes iron to be tied up.)
Macronutrients get tied up in the soil more often in soils with low pH.
Micronutrients get tied up in the soil more often in soils with high pH.
If a plant is lacking in certain nutrients, there are specific symptoms that can be used to diagnose the problem.
Composting–Organic materials are converted into soil conditioner by making the conditions right for them to break down. Humus is what it is called when the process is complete.
Organic Matter –When worked in, it can improve friableness, drainage & nutrient holding capacity. Can be gained by adding composted material, mulches, or other products available to buy.

Composting–Choose a level, well-drained site. Build your pile over soil or lawn to make use of earthworms.

Tools: Compost thermometer, compost bin, aerator

If you just add to a pile and don’t manage it, you’ll have a slower decomposition. It may take a year or two. If you do everything that you can, you’ll have a fully composted pile in 3-4 weeks. You can either put everything together all at once and work that pile or continually add to it. The latter will take longer since new materials are added.

Factors: All organic matter will decompose, but the following guidelines will speed up the process.

Carbon to nitrogen ratio (C:N)–the carbon is the “food” and the nitrogen functions as the digestive enzymes. The ratio should be 30:1 by weight. Accomplish this by adding 3-4 pounds of nitrogen material for every 100 pounds of carbon material. Not enough nitrogen will slow the decomposition process and too much can cause foul odors. Carbon: Leaves, newspaper, cardboard, sawdust, etc. Nitrogen: Manure, grass clippings, plant parts. Be careful with diseased plants and weeds. These can be added, but you need to make sure it gets hot enough to kill any diseases or weed seeds. (www.compostguide.com has a great chart listing material to be used and what not to use as well as why or why not.)

Surface Area–Cutting, chopping or otherwise making the materials in a compost pile smaller will enhance the surface area. With more surface area, the material will have more access to oxygen. Microbes can then have more access as well.

Aeration–Decomposition uses up the available oxygen. For the process to continue, more oxygen needs to be added. A compost pile needs to be turned to place the decomposing material in contact with new oxygen. The microbes will also have more access to the material.

Moisture–Microorganisms can only decompose organic materials if there is water present. The moisture content should be 40-60%. If water content goes below 40%, decomposition may stop completely. If the level is above 60%, aeration stops, nutrients can be leached out and the pile will smell. If you squeeze a handful of the compost, it should feel like a wrung-out sponge.

Temperature inside pile–The temperature should range between 90 and 140 degrees. If it is higher or lower, decomposition will slow.

Temperature outside pile–Though you can’t change the outside temperature, it will affect the temperature inside the pile. Spring is the best time to start composting. You can also improve the outside temperature by choosing a sunny, protected area.

Pollination–For fruit/seed production to occur, pollination must occur beforehand. Some plants can pollinate themselves, but others need to be pollinated by other plants. Bees, birds & wind can accomplish this.

Microorganisms–There are many microorganisms active in the soil. Some of these can provide benefits to plants. Some can make some of the essential nutrients more available to the plants by converting them into the forms that are more available to plants. Iron and Sulfur are two elements that are affected by microbes.


Microclimates–Areas that have different conditions than the surrounding land. This can be a temperature, wind, sun, moisture or any other condition, difference. This can be a beneficial or detrimental difference. If it is beneficial, you may be able to grow something that you can otherwise grow in your yard. The reverse is also true. Microclimates can be created by natural things such as trees, or hills. They can also be created by things that you do, such as plantings, fences, or buildings. Paint color or the material chosen for a fence/ building can make an area warmer if it is very light or made of glass.

Physiology & Propagation Notes

Physiology & Propagation Notes

---Right now these are mostly as I took them to class, Hopefully I'll clean them up a bit and add to them, but right now I don't have the energy... So, here they are for anyone who wants to see.---

Physiology:

Cell–smallest unit we’ll deal with

Cell walls make plants’ cells different from animals’ cells.
–can maintain turgidity or can burst —in the freezer some foods become mushy due to the cell walls bursting. Think of what happens to lettuce when it is in the back of the fridge and it freezes. It gets all limp and mushy, gross.

Parts of a plant:
What are they for? Remember, many plant parts can be used to identify a plant

Roots–absorb nutrients & water, anchor the plant, storage of sugars, can be used to propagate the plant (in some instances)
Edible–sweet potato, carrot, turnip

Crown–holds buds for growth; point of origin for stems & roots

Stems–support leaves, buds, flowers; carry water, sugars, minerals
nodes-sites where leaves and buds grow from
internodes-between nodes
Edible stems–potato, asparagus, kohlrabi, cauliflower, onion

Modified Stems–crown, spur, stolon, tuber, rhizome, bulb, corm

Leaves–absorb sunlight for photosynthesis & respiration

Buds–undeveloped shoot, leaves, or flower parts emerge
Terminal–tips; can inhibit lateral growth
Lateral–sides of the stems
Adventitious–anywhere else on the plant
Edible buds–cabbage and head lettuce, Brussels sprouts, broccoli

Flowers–attract insects for pollenation, which is for sexual reproduction

Fruit–disperse the seed and to be attractive to wildlife that can help disperse it further

Seeds–develops into a new plant; continues the genetic information to the next generation
The seeds are the part of the plant that has genetic information from both parent plants. The fleshy part (that we eat) is identical to the maternal plant. When the seeds sprout and form a new plant, the genetic information from both plants can manifest itself.

Parts of a flower:
Not all flowers are “complete”. Some need other plants for fruit to develop. Others need just another kind of pollen. Some, like some cantaloupe, need a male and female plant near each other for fruit to develop properly.
anther + filament = stamen; Male part
stigma + style + ovary = pistil; Female part —Ovary becomes fruit with seeds inside it
petal
sepal
receptacle
pedicel
tepal (no clear distinction between sepals and petals)—tulips have these

Adaptations–cactus, runners, climbing vines

Adventitious
Roots, shoots, stems, buds

Genetics
Basic Mendelian genetics, with simple traits

Cross two plants, show offspring, cross two hybrids and show offspring
— You can’t just plant the seeds from crossed plants and get the same results

Use human examples—Simple traits=one gene leads to one trait
tongue rolling, hitchhiker’s thumb (recessive), mid-digit finger hair, dimples, freckles, earlobe attachment, separated versus joined eyebrows, clockwise versus counter-clockwise hair whorl, wet or dry-type earwax

Dominant versus recessive traits


Photosynthesis—carbon dioxide + water & light = sugar & oxygen. Plant food production.

Respiration—sugar + oxygen = carbon dioxide, water & energy. Carbohydrates are converted into energy.

Transpiration—plant loses water, usually through stomata. 90% of water is lost this way, the other 10% is used in chemical reactions in the plant.

Propagation:

There is variety among all the plants. You may have to research before you can know about your specific plant’s needs. I can’t list every exception to the rule.

Asexual versus sexual reproduction–cloning

Seeds, Cuttings & Division

Seeds: Dormancy–many seeds have a dormancy that must be broken before they will grow and develop into a beautiful plant. For some, it is intense heat, others need to be soaked in water overnight. There are some that need to have the seed coat damaged so that the water can get inside the seed.

If storing seed, maintain them dry and at 40 degrees to keep them healthy.

Plant more seeds than you want plants and thin them out when you are ready to transplant, or when they crowd each other. Not all seeds will germinate and not all seedlings will develop into mature, healthy plants.

Water, oxygen, light & heat are needed to grow from seed

Keep moist by covering with some type of dome or by keeping the soil watered. Allow for air circulation as well. Water thoroughly, especially right after seeding. Use a light mist, or dip in a pan of water to keep from moving the newly planted seeds.

To allow respiration to occur, oxygen is needed. Use loose, well-aerated soil.

Light can stimulate or inhibit germination, depending on the seed variety. If light is needed indoors, artificial lighting can be used. Suspend 6-12 inches from seed tray for 16 hours per day.

Plant in soil.

Maintain between 65 & 75 degrees.

4 to 12 weeks from transplanting—start seeding.

Transplant after first true leaves appear. The first leaves that will emerge from a seed are cotyledons. They will eventually dry up and fall off. The next leaves to appear, are the first true leaves. Try not to disturb the roots as much as possible.

Hardening off. To create healthy plants that can successfully go outside, they must be hardened off. This is a process of gradually getting plants used to the normal outdoor environment they will be exposed to. This can be done by gradually lowering the temperature, humidity and water. Some of this can be accomplished when the day time temperatures are above freezing. You can put the plants outside in the day time and bring them inside at night when the temperature could dip below freezing. A good rule of thumb is to wait until Mother’s Day, for above freezing temperatures.


Cuttings: Use a sharp blade to avoid increased damage to the plant. Sterilize blade. Use a rooting hormone in a separate container. If you can find one with a fungicide, that is better.

Leaf–cut off a healthy leaf and at least 1 ½ inches of petiole, dip in rooting hormone and gently place in soil. Keep moist and warm. Cover with a plastic bag or other dome to keep humidity high. Water thoroughly when transplanting new plants. You can also just take a leaf, or make cuts in the leaf at the veins. It depends on the particular plant, in most cases. Bright, indirect light.
Used for houseplants

Stem– There are so many different kinds of stem cuttings that I can’t cover it here. Bright, indirect light.

Dividing: –early spring or late fall, when parent plant is dormant

If a plant has more than one rooted crown, then it can be divided into multiple plants.

Separate the crown, leaving 2 or 3 buds on each piece, more if you want it to be larger, faster. Trim any remaining stems or leaves and prune back the roots to fit in the pot you have chosen. Place some soil in the bottom of a 4 inch pot. Place the plant in the pot and fill remaining space with soil. Press firmly, but don’t pack down. Add more soil if needed. Water thoroughly, and keep moist, but not wet.

Nomenclature & Container Gardening

Nomenclature:

Although common names are generally easier to remember, scientific names are unique to each plant. A large reason for knowing the scientific name for a plant is that there are often numerous common names for the same plant as well as common names that are used for multiple plants. Black-eyed Susan—Rudbeckia hirta & Thunbergia alata. Dusty Miller—Centaurea cineraria, Senecio cineraria, Senecio vira-vira & Lychnis coronaria. Spanish broom–Genista hispanica (tidy 2-ft shrub) & Spartium junceum (6-10-ft weedy shrub that can run wild). Heuchera is most commonly called coral bells, but can also be known as alum root.

Names can be regional as well as only used in one family.

In one book I referred to, there were 42 plants with the genus Eucalyptus. How many lilies are there? What lilies do you know of? Would you want a calla lily, if you were looking for a day lily? They are very different plants.

Names are usually derived from Latin, but can also come from Greek, or names of people. They are all Latinized. Genus names are usually nouns and species names are usually adjectives.

If you know the meanings of these words, you may be able to know something about the plant and be able to remember its name better. For example: Lilac, Syringa vulgaris–Syringa is from the Greek word syrinx meaning ‘a pipe’. This refers to its hollow stems. And vulgaris refers to it being common.

Colors:

albus-white
cearuleus-dark blue
luteus-yellow
purpureus-purple

Leaf Form:

angustifolius-narrow
parvifolius-small
acerifolius-maplelike

Plant Shape:

altus-tall
arboreus-treelike
compactus-compact, dense
repens-creeping

Origin:

campestris-of the fields or plains
chinensis-of China
montanus-of the mountains
Then, just to make it tricky, botanists change the names of plants once in a while to place them in the groups that they believe they now belong.

The Genus name is always capitalized and the species name is always lowercase and both should be italicized or underlined, since they are a foreign language.



Container Gardening: Indoor and Outdoor

Any container can be used to garden outdoors. The soil should be replaced every year, so that the nutrient levels can be higher. Many times the plants used in them, are treated as annuals and replaced as well.


Choosing a container—This is mostly your own choice, although plants grown in clay pots with generally need more water than those in plastic containers, since water can be absorbed and lost through the clay.

Drainage—Probably the single most important quality a container should have (indoor or out) is excellent drainage. If you like a container that has no drainage holes you can either cut some, or use it with the plant potted in another pot that does have drainage holes inside it.

Selecting plants—Just select for your tastes and make sure you have enough light for the plants that you choose. There are some that need next to no light and could thrive in a closet for most of their lives. Others need quite a bit of light or they will stretch or wither.

Light levels—-Just because it seems light to you, does not mean there is enough light for the plants

Artificial lighting—Halogen, florescent, incandescent–Florescent lights are the best for growing plants indoors–cooler; it gives off the right kind of light (more closely approximates sunlight)

Watering—Poor watering is responsible for killing more houseplants than anything else. Water when the soil 1 inch from the top is dry but not powdery.

Acclimatizing plants—House plants are grown in a high light environment to maximize growth. When you buy them, they have most likely been recently removed from that or they are at least in a really low light store. When you take them home you must easy them into your conditions so that they don’t go into shock.

Soilless media—Don’t use garden soil. It won’t have enough drainage capability for a plant grown indoors.

Air circulation—If plants grown indoors don’t have enough air circulation, there will be problems with fungal growth

Humidity issues—Plants require more humidity than we have in our homes here in Utah, especially in the winter with the heaters running. If you can have a humidifier in the home, your plants, and you, will be much healthier.

Filtering air—House plants can remove pollutants such as carbon monoxide, nitrous oxide, Formaldehyde, and benzene.

Repotting—Only repot when a plant is healthy. If you repot when it is doing poorly, you may put it into shock and cause more problems than the plant had in the first place.