Planning:
1. Create a base map–Drawn to scale, includes outline of house, property lines, existing vegetation and any hardscape features (patios, decks, water features, etc)
2. Site analysis–Data collecting: zone, views, microclimates, soil type, wildlife (whether positive or negative), slope, home type, easements and access to meters, utility lines
3. Needs analysis–family’s interests and needs, are there children?, design style preferred, care and maintenance desired, lifestyle, entertaining?, annuals, perennials, fruits and vegetables, storage/utility areas.
4. Concept Drawings/Bubble diagrams–Express function, activities, spaces, use areas, circulation and relationships.
3 basic use areas: public, private & service
a. Public–areas that are seen and used
b. Private–back and side yards, outdoor living spaces
c. Service–storage & fruit and vegetable garden; usually out of the way and screened from the rest of the yard
Arrows are used to show direction of circulation through the yard. Driveway is largest arrow, then entryway, then sidewalks and other foot traffic areas.
Functional Edges: fences, visual screens, buffers
Focal points or conflict areas that need to be dealt with
5. Plant selection/Completion of plan–First function of plants is chosen, then specific plants are selected to fill those needs. Things to be considered are: the bloom time, height, sun requirements and color of the perennials.
Principles of Design:
Simplicity–Simple lines are much more effective than complex ones.
Repetition–Simplicity can be achieved primarily through repeating elements or plants through out a design.
Variety–So that the repetition doesn’t become monotonous, variety of planting is also needed.
Balance–Symmetrical balance is achieved through mirror-image plantings. Asymmetrical balance is created when large elements are opposed by many smaller elements, to achieve equal visual weight.
Emphasis–Abrupt changes in form, color or texture can create a focal point for a planting.
Interconnection–A common element is used to link different elements of the design together.
Sequence–This is the flow that is created with color, form &/or texture to draw the viewer’s eye from one place to another.
Garden Styles:
–Cottage: Planted for sustenance as well as beauty; fruits, vegetables and a few flowers; old-fashioned flowers; flowers seem to have sprung up naturally; fragrance; intermingling of flowers; spontaneous appearance; sweet peas, hollyhocks, roses, climbing vines; picket fences; simple, straight lines; benches; arbors
–Mediterranean: Water-wise; fragrant; terra cotta pots; tile mosaics; water features; shells & coral; courtyards; stone & stucco; lots of paths; lots of gravel; warm wall colors; conjures thoughts of the sea; shady place for outdoor eating; herbs; cool plant colors; olive, citrus, grape vines, sunflowers
–Formal: Symmetry; clean lines; clipped hedges; lots of repetition; mirror-images
–“New” Formal: Formality is purposefully interrupted; playful; interactive; contemporary materials
–Japanese: Serenity; celebrates the natural world; not a showcase for flowers; opposites are put into balance; changing of the seasons emphasized; bamboo, pines, flower cherry, Japanese maple
–Eccentric: Anything goes; strange ornamentation; fairy & gnome gardens; appeal to senses; conversation starters; living furniture; lots of color and imagination
–Xeric: Conserve water; uses hydrazoning for ease of watering; native and non native plants are utilized.
Color –warm colors advance, they are inviting and lively (yellow-orange-red)
–cool colors recede, they are restful (green-blue-violet)
–use the color wheel to choose colors that compliment or enhance each other
–colors that are side-by-side on the color wheel are analogous, they usually blend well together
–colors that are across from each other on the color wheel are complimentary, they tend to look good as accents in a design (violet & yellow, red & green, orange & blue are complimentary to each other)
Form –shape
–size
–growth habits: upright, compact, trailing, etc
Texture –the shapes and sizes of parts of the plant determine the texture
–large bold leaves, versus tiny, wispy leaves create very different effects
Drawing & Understanding a Landscape Plan:
Tools: architect’s scale, t-square, good pens, vellum, stationary triangles, pencil or lead holder, circle templates, drafting table, French curves, eraser shield
Guide patterns–Certain shapes and angles are used to give unity to a plan. When all beds, hardscapes and features are created using the same shapes, the plan is given more uniformity.
Planting plan & Planting schedule–The planting plan shows all the things that have been decided about a landscape and where each should go. It is drawn to scale and lists each plant to be used. A planting schedule is a list of each plant, with information about it. It tells the sizes and amount of each plant to be purchased.
Landscape Symbols–Symbols are used to show specific types and sizes of plants and hardscape features. There are different symbols for evergreens, deciduous plants, perennials and turf.
Section-elevation Drawings–used to highlight specific areas that need to show more detail
Plant Selection:
Use materials and plants which enhance the home. Use similar materials as home and existing structures. Consider the style of home as well as the surrounding homes and landscapes.
Perennials –hardiness zone
–size: rate of growth, amount and type of maintenance (prune to maintain size)
–soil: tolerance to alkalinity, acidity, salt, clay
–light exposure: sun versus shade (in Utah, remember that we are at a higher elevation, so we have hot, bright sunlight and many of our “shady” areas aren’t very shady–north side of home is usually okay
–pollution & pest resistance
–to create continuous bloom, either use a perennial bloom chart, or use books and create your own list of plants and when they bloom. Make sure to use plants that bloom in the colors you want in spring, summer and fall. If you have the information, try to find plants that bloom in early, mid and late times of each season.
Trees –Mature size
–Rate of growth: if fast, the wood is generally soft and can be a liability (they also grow to be fairly large as well)
–Roots: be careful around sidewalks and patios (roots can push them up), can cause problems in a septic field, WON’T damage foundations, compacted soil can make sidewalk heaving worse.
–Fruits: blossoms (color & timing), persistent or messy?, if persistent, birds usually eat them off before they can fall, some flower but don’t pollinate self
Shrubs –ultimate size
–purpose: flowers, hedges, foundation planting, consider foot traffic, hide meters, ornamental quality
–suckering can be an issue
–type: evergreen, broadleaf evergreen, deciduous
Special Needs:
Wind protection–If you have an extremely large area, large masses of trees can be used to protect an area. If you use a fence, it needs to have slats all along it so that there isn’t an updraft on the other side.
Right next to a house, you can use evergreen shrubs to protect from direct wind.
Privacy & Child safety–A fence may be needed when immediate shielding is required.
Slopes–ground covers can help prevent erosion, using large groupings of one kind of plant makes a slope look the most natural, use low maintenance plants since they will be difficult to get access to; terracing and stairs can also be used to deal with a steep slope.
Bring in wildlife–Need to provide a proper habitat for the animals you want in your garden.
Habitat–Understand the needs of the specific creatures you want to come into your yard. Protection and nesting place are needed.
Food–Berries, nuts, leaves, twigs, roots, buds, stems, grasses, mosses, lichen can all be foods for creatures. Persistent fruit is needed for longer use by birds. Have a bird feeder for when the food is gone in the winter. You need nectar if you are to attract bees, butterflies or moths.
Water–Water is necessary for drinking, life cycle and nesting. Ponds attract amphibians. Moving water attracts birds.
Cover–thick shrubs, tall grass, plant litter. Needs to be near food and water.
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